Sam Warford

Meet Chef Jamie Blatt

abaker — Tue, 12 Sep 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Meet Chef Jamie Blatt abaker Tue, 09/12/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/meet-chef-james-blatt-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=4DnZpfWV The culinarian joins ICE New York to share his industry expertise with the next generation of chefs. September 12, 2023

By Sam Warford

James “Jamie” Blatt joins the 51�Թ�’s Culinary Arts program after more than 30 years in the culinary industry.

Chef Jamie’s love for cooking began from the observation and admiration of his mother in the kitchen, and later, the chefs he worked alongside as a dishwasher during high school. Chef Jamie continued to work in the city that raised him, New York, where he served as Executive Chef at Pitchoune and Bar Six, and Culinary Director at Mercado Little Spain.

We caught up with the chef to learn more about his journey.

What inspired you to be a chef?

I thought I might pursue carpentry because I liked working with my hands and creating something from nothing with just an idea, some tools and materials. But after high school I was in the restaurant business for a few years, starting out as a dishwasher and moving up to prep cook and eventually line cook. When I joined a Sheraton Hotel, I got my first-hand look at real chefs and how a professional kitchen worked. These chefs were making elaborate display pieces for buffets, things like duck galantines, pâté en croute, charcuterie platters, carved fruit platters, whole poached salmon and ice carvings. They were making veal stock from scratch, braising lamb shanks, grilling venison and stuffing game birds for roasting. I was just fascinated with it all. I knew then that I was going to go all-in on the craft. I stayed working there for a few years, learning as much as I could, and after five years in the business, I was accepted to the Culinary Institute of America.

Was food a focal point for you at home?

My parents were both working when I was a kid, so dinner was usually hastily prepared. My mother was a good cook, but she didn’t spend hours in the kitchen. A simple roast or meatloaf or baked ham were staples growing up. I have a very strong memory of summertime meals of grilled London broil, sliced and served with buttered toasted bread and a simple salad. We did have a small garden in the yard with peppers, tomatoes and some berries and mint — easy and simple but satisfying flavors. The important part for my parents was the family around the table. Even if it was a simple meal, we would all eat together every night. Spending that time with my parents, my brother and my two sisters is still a memory I cherish.

How has the city itself influenced your cooking or your relationship with cooking?

The biggest benefit of living in NYC is absolutely the diversity. We know we are fortunate to be able to get great quality products easily, but it’s the people you meet and the history of the cultures and influence of the foods they bring that make it a great place for a cook. Some of the greatest meals I’ve eaten haven’t been plates destined for the dining room, but rather the family meals we shared with the team in the kitchen. I’ve been able to eat and share with cooks from Mexico, Ecuador, Peru, Italy, Spain, France, North Africa, China, Japan, Nepal, Tibet as well as America and many other places. All cooks bring their indigenous flavors, styles, ingredients and experiences to the family meal, and that’s where we all come together as cooks and understand each other better as people by sharing a meal.

After graduating from culinary school, where did you get your start?

After school I worked in the Delaware Valley for a few years, diving into American regional cooking. There is a great history and ingredients in the Mid-Atlantic region that provide a versatile palette for a cook. The corn and tomatoes of summer give way to the squashes and root vegetables of fall and winter. Grilling gives way to braising as the weather starts to chill. I love the changing of the seasons and the renewal and opportunity each season brings to the offerings and ideas.

Related: Things to Know Before Attending Culinary School

Is the industry as you expected?

The industry is exactly as I expected — chaotic, fun, hot, creative, satisfying, demanding and rewarding. It’s a proving ground and, if you have something to prove to yourself, it’s a great forum to do it in.

Were you in love with cooking right off the bat?

Once I was bitten, I went all-in realizing that cooking leads to discovery, not only of food but as it relates to science, art, history, techniques, process, formula, passion and ultimately, giving. When you cook for someone, you are giving a piece of your soul and saying, “I want this to make you happy; I care about you.” The ingredients, tools and techniques hopefully allow you to say it profoundly and eloquently.

Were there any particular mentors or influences during your development as a chef?

Mostly it’s the cooks you don’t hear about who inspire and influence me...the thousands of men and women who are working in their kitchens every day, honing their craft, experimenting with subtle technique changes, or recipe adjustments or ingredient combinations. These are the things that we all think about as cooks when we lay our heads down at night. So when I wake up, I’m eager to get back at it and keep moving forward. If I had to name some well-known chefs that have influenced me, I’d have to say Thomas Keller, Charlie Trotter, Marco Pierre White — people I always looked up to when I was younger for their steadfast determination to push themselves to achieve a higher level of execution than the day before. And legendary chefs will always have my ear: Julia Child, Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé, Alain Ducasse and Alice Waters are in my Hall of Fame for sure, but there are many more.

What brought you to ICE?

It’s simple. What brought me to ICE is the opportunity to give back. To hopefully help shape cooks and their careers and to have a positive impact on tomorrow’s chefs. I can still hear the voices, remember the direction and appreciate the mentoring of the instructors at CIA when I was a student. To be able to provide that to a young culinarian is an honor and something that I take seriously and am thankful for.

ICE Chef Interview

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Recipe: Pommes de Terre Byron

abaker — Fri, 25 Aug 2023 16:48:13 +0000

Recipe: Pommes de Terre Byron abaker Fri, 08/25/2023 - 12:48 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Pommes%20de%20Terre%20Byron%20HERO.jpg.webp?itok=iDCu9Doq Follow along with ICE LA’s Lead Chef-Instructor Eric Rowse to make this dish of cheesy potatoes at home August 25, 2023

By Sam Warford

Evidence suggests that for Lord Byron (yes, the early 19th century English poet), this French potato dish hit the spot as far as comfort food is concerned, and we couldn’t agree more.

Chef Rowse’s interpretation of this classic dish incorporates elements of a gratin. Traditionally calling for starchy potatoes such as russets, Chef Rowse uses fingerling potatoes to add more texture to the finished product. The potatoes are either baked or boiled, and then halved or gently smashed (as this recipe calls for) and formed into round cakes to be pan-fried in butter. Heavy cream and shredded Gruyère are the finishing touches that give this dish its delicious decadence.

Related: Meet ICE LA's Lead Chef-Instructor Eric Rowse

Can’t wait to dig in? Follow the recipe below for the perfect side to any steak dinner, or star at any potluck.

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Pommes de Terre Byron

1 pound fingerling potatoes
2 ounces butter or substitute with 4 ounces of neutral oil such as soybean, vegetable or avocado
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1-2 large cloves garlic, smashed
Salt
Black pepper
8 fluid ounces heavy cream, measured in two 4-ounce portions
4 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded

Wash potatoes and place in a medium pot with cold water seasoned moderately with salt. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, and cook until just tender.
Drain and wait until the potatoes are cool enough to handle.
Smash the potatoes to 1/4-inch thickness.
In a large sauté pan, add the butter, thyme and garlic. Gently melt butter over moderate heat. (Be careful with the heat so as to not burn the butter.) Once butter starts to foam, pan-fry potatoes until golden brown and crispy. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper.
Drain off any excess fat and add one measurement of heavy cream. Allow potatoes to simmer gently for the cream to absorb some of the thyme and garlic flavor. When the cream has thickened and is coating the potatoes, remove from heat and discard the garlic and thyme.
Place potatoes in a single layer in a baking dish (or multiple smaller ones depending on how they are to be served), and top with remaining cream and cheese. Broil until cheese is melted and slightly browned.

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Recipes Step 1 - Wash potatoes and place in a medium pot with cold water seasoned moderately with salt. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, and cook until just tender; Step 2 - Drain and wait until the potatoes are cool enough to handle; Step 3 - Smash the potatoes to 1/4-inch thickness; Step 4 - In a large sauté pan, add the butter, thyme and garlic. Gently melt butter over moderate heat. (Be careful with the heat so as to not burn the butter.); Step 5 - Once butter starts to foam, pan-fry potatoes until golden brown and crispy. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper; Step 6 - Drain off any excess fat and add one measurement of heavy cream. Allow potatoes to simmer gently for the cream to absorb some of the thyme and garlic flavor; Step 7 - When the cream has thickened and is coating the potatoes, remove from heat and discard the garlic and thyme; Step 8 - Place potatoes in a single layer in a baking dish (or multiple smaller ones depending on how they are to be served), and top with remaining cream and cheese; Step 9 - Broil until cheese is melted and slightly browned;

Meet Neal Fraser, Chef and Co-Owner of Downtown LA's Redbird and Vibiana

swarford — Mon, 14 Aug 2023 20:22:01 +0000

Meet Neal Fraser, Chef and Co-Owner of Downtown LA's Redbird and Vibiana swarford Mon, 08/14/2023 - 16:22 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Chef%20Neal%20Fraser%20header.JPG.webp?itok=b3bHctFX “Try hard every day.” August 15, 2023

By Sam Warford

The Chef and Co-owner of the long-standing Redbird in Downtown Los Angeles has a simple secret to success: “Surround yourself with the best people you can possibly find.”

Chef Neal Fraser, owner of multiple restaurant concepts in LA, including the acclaimed Redbird, stopped by the 51�Թ�'s Los Angeles campus for a demonstration for ICE students, staff and faculty as part of ICE's Guest Chef series.

Chef Neal has been cooking in and around Los Angeles, where he was born and raised, since he was 20 years old. He has an impressive resume including roles at Wolfgang Puck’s Eureka and Spago, the Checkers Hotel under Thomas Keller, Joachim Splichal’s Pinot Bistro, Hans Rockenwagner’s Rox and the critically acclaimed Boxer.

“I started my culinary journey just by knocking on a door,” Chef Neal says.

That “door” was at the restaurant Caioti, now called Pace, one of the few restaurants in LA’s Laurel Canyon neighborhood at the time. There, Chef Neal began his career and developed his skillset.

“[Working in the hospitality industry] has afforded me a great lifestyle and it’s something that I really enjoy,” he says. “If you can do a lot of things well, you’ll get a job. It’s kind of the best part about this business. The reason why I wanted to learn culinary is [that] I wanted to learn a trade.”

His most recent — and long-standing — business venture with his wife, Amy Knoll Fraser, has proven very successful for them both. In 2014, they opened Redbird inside the historic Cathedral of St. Vibiana in Downtown LA. Opened in 1876, the building was the first-ever cathedral constructed in the city of LA.

The name Redbird comes from the restaurant’s location. The actual dining space is in the rectory, where priests and cardinals (often cloaked in red robes) used to reside.

“[For] my wife and I, everything is very site-specific,” Chef Neal says. “Redbird is kind of invented in that space. If you were gifted the oldest building in Los Angeles to have a little restaurant out of it…we wanted it to be much more fine-dining than we ended up being. We started off being more fine-dining and pivoted.”

The entire Vibiana event space, including an outdoor dining area, covers three and a half acres with eight event spaces. This ample open-air space came in handy during the COVID-19 lockdown in 2020. For three months during the early days of the pandemic, Chef Neal hired back the staff he initially had to lay off to cook meals for over 1,300 unhoused people daily for over three months. The initiative was in partnership with Wells Fargo and the Los Angeles Homeless Services Authority (LAHSA).

That generosity is a reflection of Chef Neal’s attitude towards food and his restaurant.

“We always wanted to be the place where somebody’s in a tuxedo next to somebody in jeans and a t-shirt…and have it just be about the restaurant,” Chef Neal says.

ICE students ask questions at Chef Neal Fraser's demonstration.

The experience of giving back to the community was important for Chef Neal as a person. It also allowed his business to stay open while many other restaurants in LA stayed locked down.

Being able to adapt is crucial to being a successful business owner, according to Chef Neal.

“How do you be successful in this business? By doing more than one thing,” he says. “The pandemic and supply chain shortages have proved to be big challenges to those who can’t pivot or have more than one specialty.”

Chef Neal has a profound respect for culinary tradition and innovation not only as his subject, but also as his teacher. Food, like wine, he says, “tells you histories and stories about the world, and politics and wars.”

Food humbles. It connects the dots that many chefs might not have learned in history class, and frankly, things some students don’t even learn in history class.

For example, Mexico is the seat of many ingredients now commonly used in American cooking. Polenta. Tomatoes. Chocolate. Coffee. Grains.

As Chef Neal told ICE students, the ingredients we cook “are from somewhere else.”

"That’s the story of all you guys,” Chef Neal says. “You guys are all from different places, and you get to put all that on a plate. It’s a lot of fun, especially in Los Angeles.”

For ICE students, faculty and staff, Chef Neal prepared his most complicated dish on the menu: Gemelli with braised goat, rapini, breadcrumbs, poached egg, Fresno chili, Calabrian chili, tomatoes and fennel pollen and bulbs.

“The way I think about my own food is: how does your palate eat through the dish? If you had to dissect the…dish a balance of acid, fat, salt. That’s what enlivens your palate,” Chef Neal says.

Chef Neal also encouraged students to focus on longevity by asking themselves “what’s going to make people come to your restaurant?”

“What is going to happen in ten years? What’s going to happen in five years? Pretty monumental things are going to happen in LA in the next five years,” Chef Neal says. “One is the World Cup, one is the Olympics.”

According to Chef Neal, taking into account one’s audience, location and having a clear mission behind a restaurant concept is central to its success in the long run.

In 2019, The LA Conservancy bestowed Vibiana and Redbird with its highest honor, the Chair’s Award, to honor Chef Neal, Ms. Knoll-Fraser and their partners for their efforts to preserve a piece of LA history. Redbird was also awarded a spot on the Los Angeles Times’ former food critic Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurant List, among many other accolades.

Making inspired food requires inspiration from those around you. For Chef Neal, “it’s all about the camaraderie in the kitchen and the people you meet, and the stories you learn through culinary, which I think is really the best part about it.”

Watch the full replay of Chef Neal’s demo below.

More ICE Guest Stories: Meet Chef Eric Klein of Wolfgang Puck Catering

Demos & Lectures Guest Chefs Special Events Los Angeles

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Meet Chef Eric Klein of Wolfgang Puck Catering

ajohnson — Tue, 25 Jul 2023 18:38:14 +0000

Meet Chef Eric Klein of Wolfgang Puck Catering ajohnson Tue, 07/25/2023 - 14:38 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Eric%20Klein%20header.JPG.webp?itok=uhkHbWoe Chef Jake Leach (left) and Chef Eric Klein (right) talk to ICE students “Cooking is a global language.” July 25, 2023

By Sam Warford

Chef Eric Klein has over two decades of experience working in fine-dining kitchens around the world.

The chef, who is the Vice President of Culinary at Wolfgang Puck Catering, has a straightforward approach to cooking.

“It takes you the same amount of time to make good food and bad food," Chef Eric says. "Just be respectful to food and it will be respectful to you.”

Chef Eric stopped by the 51�Թ�'s Los Angeles campus for a demonstration for ICE students, staff and faculty as part of ICE's Guest Chef series. Chef Eric was also joined by Sous Chef Jake Leach and Vice President of Catering Sales Barbara Brass, both of whom spoke about their experiences in the hospitality industry as well.

When Chef Eric came to Wolfgang Puck Catering in 2016, he brought his culinary talent, hands-on leadership and outgoing nature to the job. His management philosophy still remains simple.

“I try hard each day to make a difference, to make everyone feel special and know that I care," he says. "For the most part, I grew up in Wolfgang’s kitchen, so taking care of his brand and his reputation is paramount for me.”

ICE students at Chef Eric Klein's demonstration.

Chef Eric has previously held positions throughout the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, including at Obachine and Chinois on Main, and the flagship Spago, where he worked alongside Chef Wolfgang Puck for seven years. Chef Eric then went on to pursue his own business enterprises as head chef of the several restaurants, including the critically-acclaimed Maple Drive in Beverly Hills, where he served up rustic yet simple dishes incorporating influences from his native town of Alsace, France. He would later rejoin Chef Wolfgang as Executive Chef at Spago Las Vegas for 11 years prior to taking on his current role at Wolfgang Puck Catering.

Watch Wolfgang Puck at ICE's 2019 Commencement

From a young age, Chef Eric recognized that in the kitchen at home or at the convent of his catholic school “everyone was always, in a way, working together.” The son of a cattle rancher and a butcher, he was also taught the importance of using the whole entire animal, not just to challenge oneself to be creative with cooking all parts of the animal, but also out of respect for the animal.

Both restaurants and catering businesses are a part of the hospitality industry. To Chef Eric, there is a profound sense of responsibility that comes with the word “hospitality.” Creating a hospitable space means making sure that everyone feels welcome. His food reflects that ethos — his guiding principle behind cooking is the idea of a welcoming, comforting home-cooked meal.

According to Chef Eric, where there are memories of home, there is passion and inspiration to cook for those you love. This philosophy of sharing a sense of gratitude for one another, and a deep respect for the food and the customers is what guides Chef Eric and his team as they craft their catering menus. After all, Chef Eric says catering is all about supporting a community that celebrates one another.

Chef Eric first sought out his culinary community by coming to America.

"[America is] filled with different ethnicities, different styles, different techniques…People like to see something different,” he says.

Cooking in this melting pot, it is no wonder that the first big hit developed by Chef Eric and his team at Wolfgang Puck Catering was a smoked salmon pizza. In catering especially, a vessel of flavor like the timeless flatbread can reign supreme.

The culinary invention that Chef Eric shared with ICE students, faculty and staff was the spicy tuna tartare with pickled ginger and scallion whites in a spicy miso cone, topped with tobiko and bonito flakes. This flavor-packed bite fit the needs of a catering dish perfectly, delivering high-quality ingredients that can be eaten standing up with a glass of wine in the other hand.

“This is not just selling food," Chef Eric says. "It’s selling a story, it’s selling, also, an experience.”

Chef Eric Klein assembling the signature tuna cones.

Chef Eric says preparation is paramount when creating the experience you want for your customers.

“You have a party for 50, and it goes to 100," he says. "What do you do? You have a party for 60,000 or 180,000, what do you do? And how do you make sure that you don’t lose quality when serving this many people? How do you make a version of a dish that is of the same quality but adapted for a huge audience? Rule number one is: 'Don’t put something on the menu that you can’t reproduce.'”

When you cater events for up to 180,000 people, this rule can be a saving grace when preparing a menu and ordering ingredients.

The Wolfgang Puck Catering team fluctuates in size from around 40 to 80 employees. They can go from catering the Oscars one night to catering a private party in India the next. For these larger events, consistency becomes more and more important, and this can only be achieved through concise communication of ingredients, process and presentation — led by Chef Eric.

He defines his leadership style with a basic principle.

“Be humble. Be kind. Be nice. Be respectful. Hard work pays off. Respect pays even more,” he says.

Watch the full replay of Chef Eric's demo below.

More ICE Guest Stories: Meet Broad Street Oyster Co.’s Owner Christopher Tompkins

Demos & Lectures Culinary Arts Guest Lectures Restaurant Management

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Meet Broad Street Oyster Co.’s Owner Christopher Tompkins

ajohnson — Wed, 19 Jul 2023 18:12:27 +0000

Meet Broad Street Oyster Co.’s Owner Christopher Tompkins ajohnson Wed, 07/19/2023 - 14:12 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Christopher%20Tompkins%20guest%20header.JPG.webp?itok=LR7r4DmL “Follow your dreams and ask questions later.” July 19, 2023

By Sam Warford

Christopher Tompkins, the founder and owner of Broad Street Oyster Company, first started his booming culinary enterprise out of the back of a van in 2017.

Christopher Tompkins stopped by the 51�Թ�'s Los Angeles campus for a discussion with Director of Restaurant & Hospitality Management Mishel LeDoux about his experience in the hospitality industry as part of the Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs series.

Tompkins' journey is rather unconventional, but he believes it doesn’t take much besides dedication and a love of food to find success.

Originally from New York, Tompkins traveled internationally in his mid-20s, taking odd jobs, living out of a backpack and completely faced with uncertainty. He was uncertain about where he would sleep each night. Uncertain about his career. Uncertain about his future.

Since high school, Tompkins dreamed of having a seafood food truck but always thought he needed more money or knowledge on the subject before starting his own business.

"Fast-forward to when I was 27,” Tompkins says. "I still didn’t have money, I still didn’t know what I was doing, and I was still scared. So then I thought to myself, ‘Whelp. Now’s the time.’”

When Tompkins returned to the United States, he couldn’t stop moving. He packed up his few belongings and drove across the country from New York City to Los Angeles, traded his pick-up truck for a van, called up some of his east-coast fishing connections and started serving up New England-inspired lobster rolls at small events across the city.

More chef demos and lecture recaps at ICE

“The idea had been formulating, and I finally just took the plunge,” Tompkins says.

He would set up his pop-up stand in front of bars or cater private parties to start. Over the span of a year, Broad Street Oyster Co. amassed a healthy following that kept Tompkins busy seven days a week. It was around this time that Tompkins first expanded his seafood empire by hiring a friend that he could drop off to cater a second event each night.

In 2018, Tompkins soon landed his first big break. Broad Street Oyster Co. was invited to Smorgasburg, Downtown Los Angeles’s largest weekly open-air food market.

“I thought that I won the lottery. This is it. This is the break that I needed,” Tomkins says.

But the pressure was on, and Tompkins knew that he had to provide “an extra special experience.”

This “experience” would be a Smorgasburg exclusive “50-dollar lobster roll,” featuring lobster meat, uni and caviar on a squid ink bun. Tompkins plated one of these rolls the day of his first Smorgasburg, posted it on social media and waited to see if people would come looking for it. And they did, one after another. Because of its popularity at Smorgasburg, lobster rolls with caviar and uni and can still be found on the menu at all Broad Street Oyster Co. locations.

A year later, Tompkins was approached “by a gentleman in a suit” at one of his catering events. He offered Tompkins a summer residency for Broad Street Oyster Co. in Malibu Village, a shopping center located off of the scenic Pacific Coast Highway.

Surprisingly, it wasn’t an easy sell for Tompkins at the time, who feared that he might be rushing things for his business. Rushing was an understatement — because of a stipulation, he would have to open the restaurant within two weeks of signing the month-to-month licensing agreement.

After some convincing by a mutual friend who knew the offerer for putting Grand Central Market vendor “Eggslut” on the map, Tompkins agreed to the terms and opened the Broad Street Oyster Co.’s first brick-and-mortar location at 23359 Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu. This summer residency proved to be a huge hit, and Tompkins would later negotiate more favorable terms for a more permanent lease.

What started off as a humble New England-inspired, LA-based pop-up then took off in a way Tompkins never expected.

Opening day arrived, and so did a crowd of hungry fans, food writers and local beach-goers. The location is still so well-loved that it has since spawned Broad Street Coffee Co., a sister cafe serving coffee and gelato right next door.

Even through the COVID-19 lockdown in 2020, Broad Street Oyster Co. thrived by converting its parking lot into a drive-through. This adaptability is a prime example of Tompkins riding the wave through the ups and downs of restaurant ownership.

As COVID restrictions eased, things would never really go back to “normal” for Tompkins. He would soon open Broad Street Oyster Company’s second location in Downtown LA’s historic Grand Central Market, followed by a third location in coastal Santa Barbara in 2022. Broad Street Oyster Co. was also invited to cater under the VIP tent at the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in 2022 and again in 2023.

Broad Street Oyster Co.’s expansion continues. Later this year, hungry seafood lovers will be able to get a lobster roll or oysters on the half shell from their upcoming locations on the Huntington Beach Pier, and in San Francisco’s Ghirardelli Square.

Perhaps the most sage advice that Tompkins offered ICE students was about seeing things through, even at the beginning of their careers.

“You do not know what you don’t know," he says. "Sometimes you just have to do something until they tell you that you can’t do it.”

ICE is honored to have hosted Christopher Tompkins and cannot wait to see what’s in store for this seafood sensation. Watch the full replay of his discussion below.

Special Events Demos & Lectures Guest Lectures Business of Food Restaurant Management

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Chef Hervé's Lime Crème Brûlée

ajohnson — Thu, 29 Jun 2023 16:34:21 +0000

Chef Hervé's Lime Crème Brûlée ajohnson Thu, 06/29/2023 - 12:34 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Lime%20brulee%20header%20resized.jpg.webp?itok=KhIDZ0CW The classic créme brulée gets a zingy, bright makeover just in time for summer. June 29, 2023

By Sam Warford

Dazzle your next dinner guest or treat yourself with ICE New York's Director of Culinary Affairs Hervé Malivert’s zesty twist on the classic crème brûlée.

Though the exact origins of créme brûlée are debated, it’s probably safe to say that the French, Spanish and English chefs of centuries past weren’t using lime juice and ginger powder in their versions of the ever-popular dessert.

They also certainly weren’t going about plating such a traditional dessert in a deconstructed manner — like they may if they worked in 21st century fine dining establishments.

Chef Hervé runs us through one of his favorite variations of the timeless dessert. The fresh flavors of lime and ginger transport this international delicacy to a summer dinner table near you.

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Follow the recipe below to give it a try for yourself.

Lime Crème Brûlée

For the gingerbread

150 g water (15 cl)
60 g sugar
150 g honey
3 g four spices (AKA "quatre épices" blend: white pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cloves)
3 g ginger powder
zest of 1 lemon
zest of 2 limes
zest of 1 orange
1 vanilla bean
1 pinch of fine salt
150 g bread flour
5 g baking soda
95 g butter
1 pinch baking soda

For the lime and vanilla cream

135 g lime juice
135 g eggs
135 g sugar
4 g agar-agar
175 g cold butter
brown sugar for topping

For the gingerbread

In a saucepan, boil water, sugar, salt and honey.
Add ginger powder, quatre épices, lemon, orange and lime zest.
Add butter to the saucepan and let it melt. Then cover the pan and let it infuse in the heat.
Sift the flour and baking soda into a bowl.
Pass the infusion in the saucepan through a colander, then gradually pour it over the flour and baking powder, stirring with a whisk to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
Place mixture into lightly oiled Flexipan molds.
Bake for 40 minutes at 350°F (or about 180°C) before letting it cool on a rack.

For the lime and vanilla cream

In a saucepan, bring the lime juice, eggs, sugar and agar-agar to a boil while whisking for 1 minute.
Transfer the mixture to a blender and at medium speed incorporate the 175 grams of butter little by little to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let cool in the fridge.

For plating

With a spoon, form 3 quenelles on a plate. Sprinkle with brown sugar and burn with a torch.
Arrange the fruit, place a few drops of the orange gel and finish with a slice of ginger bread.

Desserts Cheese & Dairy Pastry & Baking Arts Baking Arts Recipe

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Recipes For the gingerbread;
Step 1 - In a saucepan, boil water, sugar, salt and honey; Step 2 - Add ginger powder, quatre épices, lemon, orange and lime zest; Step 3 - Add butter to the saucepan and let it melt. Then cover the pan and let it infuse in the heat; Step 4 - Sift the flour and baking soda into a bowl; Step 5 - Pass the infusion in the saucepan through a colander, then gradually pour it over the flour and baking powder, stirring with a whisk to obtain a homogeneous mixture; Step 6 - Place mixture into lightly oiled Flexipan molds; Step 7 - Bake for 40 minutes at 350°F (or about 180°C) before letting it cool on a rack; For the lime and vanilla cream;
Step 1 - In a saucepan, bring the lime juice, eggs, sugar and agar-agar to a boil while whisking for 1 minute; Step 2 - Transfer the mixture to a blender and at medium speed incorporate the 175 grams of butter little by little to obtain a homogeneous mixture; Step 3 - Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let cool in the fridge; For plating;
Step 1 - With a spoon, form 3 quenelles on a plate. Sprinkle with brown sugar and burn with a torch; Step 2 - Arrange the fruit, place a few drops of the orange gel and finish with a slice of ginger bread;

ICE Students Create Flavor-Packed Plant-Based Meal

ajohnson — Wed, 05 Apr 2023 22:43:40 +0000

ICE Students Create Flavor-Packed Plant-Based Meal ajohnson Wed, 04/05/2023 - 18:43 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Lemon%20water%20table%20flower%20wine%20glass%20fancy%20PBCA%20header.JPG.webp?itok=hiGWt_l1 Plant-based foods are everything but unsubstantial and plain. April 6, 2023

By Sam Warford

I knew plant-based cooking could taste good, but I had never tasted rice paper "bacon" that hit like this.

As a new member of the ICE staff, I was invited to attend the fine-dining four-course meal put on by our Plant-Based Culinary Arts students in their final in-class module of the curriculum. Every Plant-Based Culinary Arts cohort eventually participates in this assignment, but each individual class chooses their own theme for the meal, which is typically entirely vegan.

As someone who has experimented with varying diets, from gluten-free and dairy-free to full veganism, I was extremely interested in what ICE students could do with similar restrictions on their cooking.

Led by Chef-Instructors Missy Smith-Chapman and Carrie Smith, the plant-based kitchen was turned into a high-end dining experience named “QHGC,” an acronym of the first initial of each of our four student hosts' names. They kicked things off with miso and caramel popcorn, escabeche and a refreshing, non-alcoholic lychee margarita.

Attention to detail is central to all lessons at ICE — presentation and ambience included. Flower centerpieces, smooth jazz and the most exquisite lemon water were among the many details that elevated the whole experience.

A key part of this lesson is the emphasis on collaboration between the students to create dishes with stand-out flavors that will also add to the cohesiveness of the menu as a whole. This specific menu’s through-line went beyond the broad classification of “vegan,” with inspiration from classic Latin American cuisine.

After the appetizers, we were presented with a fresh ceviche dish made with hearts of palm, avocado and jicama followed by an elote soup with miso and lime, served with savory rice paper "bacon." It was also at this point when my empty margarita glass was replaced by a delightful pomegranate fizz drink.

Next was the main course: a tower of flavor in the form of a scallion pancake-wrapped jackfruit and black bean enchilada. It was substantial, to say the least.

For dessert, we were served a homemade horchata ice cream atop a nest of phyllo dough and Japanese sweet potato pureé, which was followed by a warm matcha tea and matcha cookie. Call our palettes pampered.

Days like today are reminders of the students' dedication to their craft. To share food with others is more than just serving delicious-tasting food — it’s about creating a community.

Plant-Based Plant-Based Culinary Arts Dinner

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Plant-Based Culinary Arts

Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie

ajohnson — Wed, 22 Mar 2023 18:52:05 +0000

Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie ajohnson Wed, 03/22/2023 - 14:52 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Red%20striped%20croissant%20header.JPG.webp?itok=yQTDvrm- ICE chefs demonstrate how to laminate dough for the perfect croissants, Danishes and puff pastries March 22, 2023

By Sam Warford

Do you love a flaky, delicate croissant? Or a sticky, sweet Danish? Meet your favorite pastry category: viennoiserie.

Today, Pastry & Baking Arts students at ICE have the opportunity to learn and adopt the traditional techniques of viennoiserie, which go back almost a millennium to its origins in Vienna.

The most recent viennoiserie day at ICE LA was led by Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructors Carrie Smith and Jürgen David.

“It’s a beautiful art,” Chef Carrie says.

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Unlike crunchy, heartier yeasted doughs, viennoiserie breads are typically on the sweeter side, with well-known examples including cinnamon rolls and brioche. Viennoiserie relies on a particular process known as lamination, in which dough is either kneaded and pressed into sheets by hand or, for larger-scale productions, with a sheeter machine. The layers of dough are then folded over, separated by a layer of butter in what are known as envelope folds. These folds encase the butter so that it may give rise to the pastries once they are baked.

But first, the sheeted dough is placed in a proofing drawer at just below 90˚F for two hours. This creates a humid environment for the dough to rise while keeping the butter at the proper temperature to prevent it from oozing out the sides or hardening within, preserving the layers.

“It’s a wonderful day for students and for the chefs,” Chef Carrie says. “It’s also a day that requires close attention to structure.”

For instance, a traditional Danish recipe requires more sugar than a croissant, and may even include the traditional Scandinavian spice cardamom. A Danish is also glazed in simple syrup to make it moist and give it a tantalizing shine.

A croissant, on the other hand, is typically crunchier and possesses an airier, honeycomb consistency thanks to the absence of eggs. There are, of course, variations of all these pastries, as Chefs Carrie and Jürgen made a red striped, bi-color croissant with a raspberry filling. The color design denotes the type of filling — for example, a green stripe may indicate a pistachio cream filling.

Read More: A Brief History of the Croissant

Once the pastries are puffy and proofed, into the oven they go.

The pastries always come out of the oven to much fanfare. In addition to being delicious, the students’ hard work on creating the viennoiserie sweets makes them highly Instagrammable.

“The slice when you get to see the honeycomb of layers is everyone’s happy moment,” Chef Carrie says.

Pastries aren’t the only thing that must rise to the occasion, as students are expected to meet the demands of a fast-paced and high-volume production of a professional bakery. Coordination on the line is crucial to get the pastries glazed in butter and drizzled in icing before they are boxed up for distribution.

Flaky, buttery viennoiserie pastries are sure to delight students, chefs and customers around the world. That’s why this lesson, which teaches both technical skills and teamwork, is a crucial part of the ICE curriculum.

Plus: the pastries pair perfectly with a hot cappuccino.

Recipe: Croissant Cinnamon Rolls with Homemade Filling

Pastry & Baking Arts Baking Arts Culinary Technique

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Pastry & Baking Arts

Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE

ajohnson — Wed, 01 Mar 2023 21:41:06 +0000

Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE ajohnson Wed, 03/01/2023 - 16:41 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Pizza%20Day%20header.JPG.webp?itok=TNQiiVhY ICE students make pizza and share their work with everyone on this much-beloved day March 1, 2023

By Sam Warford

Everyone (staff, faculty and students alike) loves pizza day.

Pizza, whether viewed as a refined classic flatbread or vehicle for meat, cheese and sauce, is a cornerstone of the culinary landscape in the United States.

Fittingly, it also serves an important role in the Pastry & Baking Arts curriculum at the 51�Թ�.

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Pizza has been enjoyed in Italy and beyond in different shapes and forms for thousands of years. Nothing brings people together like pizza, and at ICE, students make pizza from scratch in order to learn about the timeless art that goes into this crowd favorite.

The leavened flatbread has been topped with a variety of cheeses, garlic, herbs and dates since the age of antiquity. In ancient Persia, it is even said that these flatbreads were baked atop warriors’ shields between battles.

Surprisingly, tomatoes were not incorporated in the dish until the Spanish brought tomatoes to Italy from the Americas during the 16th Century. The classic Neapolitan pizza was first made with fresh basil, mozzarella and sweet and acidic tomato sauce during the 18th Century for the arrival of the Queen of Italy in Naples. Its creator, Raffaele Esposito, wanted to present a dish that represented the colors of their country — green, white and red.

Related Reading: Homemade Pizza Tricks

Today, this delicious flatbread is being taught and reimagined at ICE Los Angeles. In order to simulate a day in a busy pizzeria or restaurant, students prepare and bake made-to-order pies for the ICE faculty and staff.

Working on the line, students cut and prep ingredients, shape dough, cook pies and then deliver them to the staff. On pizza day, the ovens are occupied for hours as students continually prep and bake — sometimes more than 50 orders per class block. Topping options often include meats such as prosciutto, bacon, pepperoni, and vegetables like jalapeños and bell peppers.

Once service has ended, the students have the opportunity to award themselves with a pie of their very own. They just have to make it first.

Through this process, ICE students are shown that cooperation, cleanliness and organization in the kitchen and a personable customer experience are key to the success of any chef or restaurant.

Plus, everyone gets their own custom pizza. ICE LA loves pizza day.

RECIPE: Chef Sim's Pro Pizza Dough

Pastry & Baking Arts Career Paths

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Pastry & Baking Arts

Chef Maya's Elevated Sushi Bake Recipe

ajohnson — Tue, 14 Feb 2023 18:59:58 +0000

Chef Maya's Elevated Sushi Bake Recipe ajohnson Tue, 02/14/2023 - 13:59 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1440/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Sushi%20Bake%20Header.JPG.webp?itok=D6OZcUB1 This trendy dish combines the humble weeknight casserole with your favorite specialty roll February 15, 2023

By Sam Warford

ICE Los Angeles’ Chef-Instructor Maya Aldy-Fletcher helps you bring classic sushi flavors to a casserole, which is perfect for a large group, with this easy sushi bake recipe.

Sushi bakes, which are a deceptively simple yet deeply delicious take on a rice casserole, have been very trendy on social media.

Though the sushi bake as a dish stepped into the spotlight only recently, its ingredients are built on essential, comfortingly familiar sushi flavors. Chef Maya's take includes a silky homemade Japanese-style mayonnaise as well as crab meat, tobiko (also known as flying fish roe) and salmon roe as the proteins.

The recipe is versatile, so you can substitute in protein(s) of your choice if crab meat and roe aren't your cup of tea. Though the recipe calls for baking everything together, the crab salad and rice combo is also great on its own as a rice bowl on a warm summer day.

"It's like a comforting baked rice dish," Chef Maya says. "It brings all these delicious flavors together."

After pulling it out of the oven, the bubbly bake gets seasoned with more mayo, salt, nori flakes and additional toppings to taste to create a hearty yet easy to make casserole dish. (Fancy plating optional.)

This sushi bake is perfect for your next party or for meal prep. Here's how to make it at home.

Elevated Sushi Bake

Serves 4-6

For the Japanese-style mayonnaise:

3 egg yolks
1.5 TB rice vinegar
1/4 teaspoon dashi powder
1 cup canola oil
Salt to taste

For the sushi bake:

2 cups cooked sushi rice (seasoned with rice vinegar and sugar while still hot)
1/3 cup canned crab meat
1/3 cup tobiko (flying fish roe)
1/3 cup salmon roe
Homemade Japanese-style mayonnaise
1/4 cup sliced green onions

For garnish (optional):

Roasted seaweed packages or nori sheets
Sliced green onions
Pickled ginger
White sesame seeds

For the Japanese-style mayonnaise:

Whisk egg yolks in a bowl, along with the rice vinegar, dashi powder and about 1/4 cup of the canola oil.
Continue to whisk while slowly adding the oil, watching the texture of the mayonnaise. Taste and salt as you go.
Once you've added all or nearly all of the oil, you should have a creamy, thickened mayonnaise. Add more salt to taste and set aside.

For the sushi bake:

Preheat your oven to 375°F.
Make the crab salad: Add the crab meat to a mixing bowl and gently pull apart any clumps with your fingers, making sure to remove any bits of shell you find. Add tobiko, salmon roe, green onions and 3/4 cup homemade Japanese-style mayo and mix well. Set aside.
Oil the inside of a small casserole dish or stainless steel pan well. Evenly spread and press the seasoned sushi rice across the bottom of the pan.
Spread the crab salad mixture on top of the rice, making sure to spread it all the way to the edges. Top with an additional drizzle of the homemade Japanese-style mayo.
Bake for 10-12 minutes or until slightly browned on top.
OPTIONAL: Using a kitchen torch, carefully toast the top of the sushi bake until crispy. You could also turn the oven on broil and place the dish back in for 2-3 minutes.
Garnish with more Japanese-style mayo, sesame seeds, more tobiko and salmon roe, pickled ginger and sliced roasted seaweed as desired. To serve, cut a slice with a large spoon or spatula and dig in!

More Recipes: Butternut Squash with Rosemary Walnuts

Recipe Fish & Seafood Dinner

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Recipes For the Japanese-style mayonnaise;
Step 1 - Whisk egg yolks in a bowl, along with the rice vinegar, dashi powder and about 1/4 cup of the canola oil; Step 2 - Continue to whisk while slowly adding the oil, watching the texture of the mayonnaise. Taste and salt as you go; Step 3 - Once you've added all or nearly all of the oil, you should have a creamy, thickened mayonnaise. Add more salt to taste and set aside; For the sushi bake;
Step 4 - Preheat your oven to 375°F; Step 5 - Make the crab salad: Add the crab meat to a mixing bowl and gently pull apart any clumps with your fingers, making sure to remove any bits of shell you find; Step 6 - Add tobiko, salmon roe, green onions and 3/4 cup homemade Japanese-style mayo and mix well. Set aside; Step 7 - Oil the inside of a small casserole dish or stainless steel pan well. Evenly spread and press the seasoned sushi rice across the bottom of the pan; Step 8 - Spread the crab salad mixture on top of the rice, making sure to spread it all the way to the edges. Top with an additional drizzle of the homemade Japanese-style mayo; Step 9 - Bake for 10-12 minutes or until slightly browned on top; Step 10 - OPTIONAL: Using a kitchen torch, carefully toast the top of the sushi bake until crispy. You could also turn the oven on broil and place the dish back in for 2-3 minutes; Step 11 - Garnish with more Japanese-style mayo, sesame seeds, more tobiko and salmon roe, pickled ginger and sliced roasted seaweed as desired. To serve, cut a slice with a large spoon or spatula and dig in!;