Dana Mortell

Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs: Ariane Daguin

ohoadmin — Tue, 30 Sep 2014 20:51:58 +0000

Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs: Ariane Daguin ohoadmin Tue, 09/30/2014 - 16:51 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/goose_1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=Xr0fM9aM September 30, 2014

By Dana Mortell

Foie gras. Pâté. Offal. These niche food items may be familiar to us today, but in 1985, these products were unknown to many Americans. That is, until Ariane Daguin launched D’Artagnan, an inspired idea that became one of the largest and most trusted specialty meat distributors in the country. In celebration of the company’s 30th anniversary, we recently invited the visionary founder and CEO to ICE as part of our Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs series.

Photo Credit: Boston.com

Born in the Gascony region of France to a family with a seven-generation culinary legacy—including a chef father with 2 Michelin stars to his name—it was clear from early on that Ariane had inherited a passion for the food industry. Yet, despite growing up with this impressive gastronomical heritage, her original career ambition was to become a journalist, a dream she pursued by enrolling as an undergraduate at Columbia University.

During her summers off from school, Ariane worked the retail counter at Les Trois Petits Cochons, which was—and still is—one of New York’s finest French pâté producers. When she suggested to the owners that they should sell their products wholesale to the city’s fine food shops, amazingly, they presented her with the opportunity to develop this concept within their existing business. Meanwhile, at Columbia, Ariane had met George Faison—her future business partner.

Joining Ariane and her friends on weekly restaurant outings, George realized they shared one very special passion: French cuisine. Soon enough, he joined Ariane at Les Trois Petits Cochons while he was finishing his MBA. Working together, the two gained invaluable experience in the industry over the next five years. But when the shop’s owners decided that Ariane’s entrepreneurial ideas—in particular, becoming the sole foie gras distributor for a duck farm in the Catskills—were too risky, the pair knew it was time to branch off on their own.

Photo Credit: First We Feast

The timing couldn’t have been better. At the time, there was no fresh, domestic foie gras available in the country—American chefs were cooking it out of a can. With a specific mission in mind, the two launched D’Artagnan (named after one of the Three Musketeers, a book penned by Alexandre Dumas, with whom Ariane shares her hometown). Draining their savings, the pair leased a truck and a small refrigeration space, and gained an exclusive contract with the Catskills duck farm to sell foie gras. “The first few years were extremely difficult. It was hard to receive cash flow. Banks didn’t want to lend anything since there was no guarantee. At one point, we had $35 in the bank,” said Daguin.

To stay viable, they had to convince the foie gras farmers that they were the right people for the job. Ariane threw everything she had into her work. Knowing that it would be met with hesitation from the public, she invested time in educating clients about the product. And since foie gras was a relatively unfamiliar ingredient for chefs, D’Artagnan kept two days' inventory on hand, to allow for last-minute orders. This, Ariane knew, would give their clients the freedom to be more daring with the specialty ingredient, testing the waters as they gauged their guests’ reactions.

Ariane and her father. Photo Credit: dartagnan.com

In addition, Ariane was taught by her father that a good chef knows how to use the whole animal, so she sought out chefs with a similar perspective. George and Ariane began to develop relationships with these chefs, who provided checks as credit to receive foie gras in the future. Those crucial partnerships allowed the company to get one step ahead. Ariane’s vision for D’Artagnan also began to re-shape the farming practices of her producers. She wanted to be able to market D’Artagnan’s products as fresh, free-range, and organic, but felt she still needed something to set her foie gras apart. Ariane begged her farmers to raise heritage duck breeds. These would take longer to raise—nine months, as opposed to the traditional five—and it took all of Ariane’s powers of persuasion to convince the farmers that this time-consuming change would be a worthwhile investment. At the same time, Ariane was growing her network at the other end of the food chain, tapping into a new generation of ambitious New York City chefs.

Ariane gets a boost from the industry's top chefs. Photo Credit: Food Arts Magazine

Her primary customers were young culinary innovators, such as Patrick Clark of Odeon, David Burke, and Daniel Boulud. Growing her inventory to include game birds and other specialized products, Ariane provided chefs with access to a whole new world of high-quality products, distinguishing D’Artagnan as a unique resource for this ambitious culinary community.

Today, Ariane is one of the most respected women in the food industry. She works with chefs, restaurateurs, and purveyors from across the country—some offering ideas for new product offerings, while others make requests for such rare products as charcuterie, truffles, or mushrooms. D’Artagnan, in turn, has become one of the most successful specialty food companies in the industry, with 172 employees, 35 trucks and 82 million dollars in revenue.

Though she and George parted ways in the early 2000’s, Ariane has since taken D’Artagnan to new heights. The business now has an outpost in Chicago and is about to open a third location in Houston. But despite her ambitions, Ariane also knows her limits—she may be a master of sourcing, but she has no desire to open her own slaughterhouse. Ariane wisely believes the key to her success is that she knows what she does best, and sticks to it with passion, integrity, and honesty.

For more success stories from the industry's top entrepreneurs, click here.

Restaurant Management

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Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs: Ken Oringer

ohoadmin — Thu, 22 May 2014 22:52:43 +0000

Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs: Ken Oringer ohoadmin Thu, 05/22/2014 - 18:52 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Meet%20the%20Culinary%20Entrepreneurs%20Ken%20Oringer1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=YlT1SBhL May 22, 2014

By Dana Mortell

This spring, ICE was thrilled to invite renowned Chef/Restaurateur Ken Oringer to share his experience and insight with our students. As a James Beard award-winning chef of four celebrated Boston restaurants and one New York location, Oringer has helped shape the national culinary scene, using his passion for travel and exotic cuisines to inform his creativity in the kitchen.

Photo Credit: KenOringer.com

Growing up, Oringer wasn’t surrounded by unique ingredients or international cuisines. But as a kid, he always wanted to hold a knife because he knew he belonged in a restaurant kitchen. Whenever his parents would take him to Chinatown, Ken was always amazed by the cooks stir-frying in woks over a high heat flame. His favorite treat at street fairs was lamb on a stick, an exotic foodstuff in his Massachusetts hometown. Observing these different techniques and flavors fostered his curiosity well into his adolescence.

Oringer's first foray in the business was a position at a family-run Italian deli. There, he learned how mise en place and preparation influenced the end product. Once he reached the ripe age of 15 years, he decided that it was his time to work in a proper restaurant. He went door-to-door asking for work, even if it was unpaid. All Ken wanted was the experience of working in a professional kitchen to enhance his skills, which he continued to do through high school. Following his parents' influence, Ken headed off to business school, but still dreamed of being a chef. He nearly flunked out after his first semester at Bryant College, continuing to research food during his spare time. However, the strict curriculum in finance and accounting wound up being a blessing, benefiting the day-to-day operations of his current restaurant group.

After graduating from college, Oringer knew that he didn’t want to sit behind a desk. His business school internships had proved uninspiring, and he knew that his heart was still in the kitchen. Ken enrolled in culinary school with an exceptional sense of focus. He knew exactly what he needed to do to succeed and was always the first student in class and the last one out. Ken also explains that he wasn't afraid to make mistakes in class, seeing them as an opportunity to learn as much as possible from his chef-instructors.

Photo Credit: kenoringer.com

Once it was time to choose an externship site, Oringer sought placement at the River Café in Brooklyn with Chef David Burke. It was the 1980s and Burke was fearless. Ken had frontline access to a menu chock-full of exotic items such as duck tongue confit. He recalls wanting to taste everything to make up for lost years, having only tasted sushi or oysters for the first time as an undergrad.

As an entry-level cook with no money, River Café gave him the opportunity to experience these new ingredients while learning and working. After culinary school, Oringer went back to New England and got his first job at Al Forno in Providence, Rhode Island. The restaurant was among the first to start using organic and local ingredients, similar to the Alice Waters philosophy.

Over the next few years, Oringer worked his way up to the role of pastry chef and created a menu where all ice cream was made to order. But Oringer had more on his mind than Italian classics. On one occasion, he remembers visiting an off-the-beaten-path Cambodian restaurant in South Providence.

From fresh galangal to fried shallots, he was endlessly intrigued by the use of these new and complex flavors. He gave Al Forno his two weeks' notice, and headed back to Boston to pursue the next phase of his career. In Boston, Oringer begged to be hired at Le Marquis de Lafayette, a prominent French restaurant where Jean-Georges was consulting chef, incorporating flavors from Bangkok throughout the menu. He may have been the only American in a kitchen of French-speakers, but Ken was enamored with Jean-Georges' cooking style. He was working with the best products from around the world, including kilos of black truffles. Eventually, Oringer was promoted to sous chef, mastering the art of survival in one of the country's most demanding kitchens.

After a stint as the Chef de Cuisine at Silks in the Mandarin Oriental in San Francisco crafting Asian-influenced French cuisine, Oringer returned to Boston to open his first restaurant, Clio, in 1997. This was the point when business school became highly valuable, aiding with the design, financials and business plan for the restaurant. Clio was a rustic space with a casual vibe that served contemporary French and Asian cuisine. From day one, the restaurant was packed; a success owed in large part to the quality of Oringer's staff. A team of positive and driven individuals, he recalls the team as being particularly respectful and effective communicators.

Clio opened the door to future opportunities for Oringer. In 1998, when he heard the James Beard Foundation nominated him for Best New Chef Northeast, he was shocked—and even more so when he won the award in 2001. With national recognition under his belt, developers and moguls started to approach him with national and international consulting and partnership ideas, but Oringer knew he had to be selective. Uni, a sashimi bar located in the lounge of Clio, opened in 2002. It was born of Oringer's travels to Asia, where he was inspired by chefs who spent their entire careers mastering a single style of dish or set of ingredients, especially the individuals who mastered tempura.

Impressed by the art of performing and repeating a recipe for years on end, Oringer chose to have Uni specialize in different styles of sashimi, without maki rolls or rice. Oringer's further travels brought him to Barcelona, where he was seduced by the culture of Spain's tapas bars. Capturing the culture of social eating, Oringer opened Toro, following by the Italian enoteca, Copa, in 2010.

Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonette at Toro in NYC. Photo Credit: seriouseats.com

Oringer's most recent project was opening a second location of Toro in New York City on 15^th Street and 10^th avenue—the same block as Mario Batali’s Del Posto and Tom Colicchio’s Colicchio & Sons. The restaurant opened in 2013 in a 9,000 square foot space with a private dining room, offering house-made charcuterie and 65 items on the menu. Oringer is thrilled to have his business translate to the competitive culture of New York dining, and the restaurant has proved a fantastic success.

Despite all his success, Oringer is an extremely humble individual whose philosophy is one of hard work, creativity, and respect in the kitchen, while maintaining an open mind. Having great food isn’t good enough. His staff is taught to treat people well and take on the attitude that no task is too big or too small. That said, Oringer insists that cultivating an environment where the staff wants to stay is key, a task made more manageable by granting requests for personal matters and scheduling fairly. From what we can see, dedication, focus and clear communication—and never giving in to the temptation of ego—have been the main secrets to the success of Ken Oringer.

Click here to read more stories of successful food industry entrepreneurs who have visited ICE.

Restaurant Management Restaurants

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Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs: Donald Link

ohoadmin — Thu, 15 May 2014 21:26:03 +0000

Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs: Donald Link ohoadmin Thu, 05/15/2014 - 17:26 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Meet%20the%20Culinary%20Entrepreneurs%20Donald%20Link1400x680%20-%20pc%20%20-%20The%20Link%20Group%20copy.jpg.webp?itok=UT9A7hiG Photo Credit: Peche Restaurant May 15, 2014

By Dana Mortell

On April 3rd, ICE welcomed Chef Donald Link as part of our ongoing Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs series. This was a unique opportunity for ICE's student body and the general public to interact with one of New Orleans' leading chefs and restaurateurs.

Link is the Chief Executive Officer of the New Orleans based restaurant group Link Restaurant Group, which includes 5 different operations. Link is the recipient of the 2007 James Beard Award for "Best Chef South" and has also been nominated for the "Outstanding Chef" Award in 2012 and 2013. His group's latest addition, Pêche Seafood Grill, also scored its fourth and fifth JBF Awards in 2014, for "Best New Restaurant in America" and "Best Chef: South."

Image courtesy of buy.louisianaseafood.com

He began his professional culinary career at the age of fifteen, inspired by his grandparents' mastery of Cajun and southern cooking. Working his way up the professional ladder, he made it a priority to learn all the roles of the kitchen—including the not-so-glamorous ones.

Through this careful strategy of observation and practice, Link has honed his celebrated culinary identity, creatively utilizing his southern roots in the process. It goes without saying that Link is not just a master chef; he is a profitable (albeit humble) businessman as well. Accordingly, he didn't spend much time discussing his personal accomplishments with ICE students.

Instead, Link used his time at the school to discuss the business tactics required to build a successful restaurant operation. He offered advice based on his own experiences, from business plans to food costing and net sales calculations, while sharing a number of amusing personal anecdotes.

Donald Link speaking with ICE students and guests.

When it comes to hiring, Link looks first and foremost for drive and motivation in a potential employee. He claims he can tell within a few minutes if someone will work well in his kitchen. He gives aspiring cooks a chance, observing them closely and examining their overall culinary presentation. From there, he can determine if a person is a good fit for his operation.

During his presentation, Link spent some time discussing the path to becoming a chef. He focused on training in the kitchen accompanied by real-world experience and cautioned students not to be in a rush to move up. When you spend time focusing on a promotion, he stressed, you disregard what’s going on around you, which is of critical importance in a professional kitchen. Ingesting information and mastering important culinary skills is vital for advancement and takes time, he said. Link encourages students to immerse themselves in a variety of culinary environments to diversify their portfolios – it helps you be more creative, he said and makes you more prepared when the time finally comes that you get to create your own dishes.

Chef Link plating at his restaurant Herbsaint. Photo courtesy of http://theadvocate.com

When you reach the position of executive chef, your responsibilities multiply exponentially, Link says. Foreseeing problems, mentoring your staff and monitoring cost are all the head chef's responsibility. Since the price of food is dependent on seasonal availability, environmental factors and transportation costs (for example, non-local ingredients that must be imported), the executive chef must carefully monitor food costs and adjust the menu accordingly, since at the end of the day, running a restaurant is about making a profit and utilizing costs efficiently.

Link also discussed his current role as a restaurant business owner. Knowing why people eat out and how to assess your market are key to running a successful business. Furthermore, he said, it's your responsibility to cater to the community your restaurant serves. When tourists visit and see a restaurant with a strong sense of place and authenticity, they are immediately drawn to it. Of course, getting deemed "one of the top 3 restaurants that count” in The New York Times or named one of the "20 Most Important Restaurants in America" by Bon Appétit doesn't hurt either, as is the case with Link's restaurant, Cochon. But following a thoughtful strategy like Link's is precisely how Cochon landed such profitable distinctions.

As far as creating a rewarding work environment, Link discussed his relationship with his employees and the importance of maintaining healthy and positive relationships. He believes that fair pay is key, as is treating your staff with respect and appreciation. These two factors result in a low turnover rate and a trustworthy team that will remain with you for years on end. Training is also crucial, as is having an environment that facilitates training naturally. In fact, one of the qualities Link loves most about his staff is that they are constantly communicating with one another in a helpful, efficient fashion—a crucial component to running a successful and sustainable operation.

Nearing the end of his talk, Link got personal. He shared his experience with Hurricane Katrina and its devastating effect on the New Orleans community. He lost everything—his home, his belongings and one of his restaurants. He explained that at the time, the city wasn’t taking this storm seriously (since NOLA had dodged other storms). Luckily, Link trusted his gut and left the city to meet his family the day before Katrina hit, encouraging his whole staff to do the same.

When he returned, the devastating effects of Katrina were everywhere. While Link, like so many others, lost so much, he was resolved to rebuild what he had worked for his entire life. He gave his staff three weeks off to get their personal affairs in order. Meanwhile, he set to work cleaning mold, gutting interiors and building new furniture for his operation. Miraculously, Link wound up re-opening three weeks later, serving a limited menu on paper plates. For Link, this feat wasn't about making an immediate profit, it was about nourishing his community.

Chef Link's sustained success is a testament to the fact that dedication and thoughtful planning, as well as cultivating close personal relationships with your staff and the community, is vital to owning and operating a successful restaurant. We're grateful that he could join us for such an informative and inspiring chat with our students!

Special Events Demos & Lectures Chefs

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12th Annual Cookin' with Allagash Recipe Contest

ohoadmin — Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:16:35 +0000

12th Annual Cookin' with Allagash Recipe Contest ohoadmin Thu, 04/10/2014 - 14:16 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/12th%20Annual%20Cookin%E2%80%99%20with%20Allagash%20Recipe%20Contest1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=5g9Qc0aY April 10, 2014

By Dana Mortell

On March 27th, Allagash co-founder Rob Tod and ICE Dean of Students Andrew Gold co-hosted the 12th annual Cookin' with Allagash Recipe Contest at ICE. At this much-anticipated event, sponsored by Allagash Brewing Company, ICE students competed for scholarship money to apply towards their culinary school tuition.

This year, students were charged with creating Belgian-style dishes to pair with Allagash's popular Saison beer. Of the many students who submitted recipes, the, top three—Hadar Aviram, David Kurihara and Adrian Brown—were picked to compete for scholarships at the event itself.

From left: Adrian Brown, Hadar Aviram and David Kurihara with their dishes. Photo by Dee Dee Germain.

For the event, Allagash supplied multiple cases of Saison—their interpretation of a classic Belgian farmhouse style beer that is brewed in the winter to be enjoyed during the summer months. The beer is refreshing, with notes of spice and tropical fruit in its aroma. With ample bottles of Saison at their disposal, ICE student contestants were able to experiment with the beer as they developed recipes for the contest with Chef Virginia Monaco, Culinary Relations Manager at ICE. Chef Virginia helped mentor students during the recipe creation process, providing valuable feedback in the final days before the competition.

Contest winner Hadar Aviram (left) plating with Chef Virginia Monaco. Photo by Dee Dee Germain.

On the night of the event, the Allagash team traveled all the way from Portland Maine to support the finalists during the cook-off. As in years past, the food was top-notch, the crowd energetic and the beer flowing. The distinguished judging panel included industry professionals such as ICE alumnus Ivy Stark (Corporate Executive Chef at Dos Caminos), Joshua Bernstein (Editor in Chief of Craft Beer New York and author of Brewed Awakening: The Complete Beer Course), Lauren Buzzeo (Tasting Director and Executive Editor at Wine Enthusiast Magazine) and James Piccolo (Sous Chef at Tarry Lodge in Westport, CT).

The judges focused on originality, creativity and flavor, as well as the degree of completion, presentation and overall technique. They also look into account core skills such as sanitation, mise en place, fabrication, recipe accuracy, and organization. But primarily, they were looking for the dish to complement the Allagash Saison.

The judges (from left): Ivy Stark, Joshua Bernstein, Lauren Buzzeo and James Piccolo. Photo by Dee Dee Germain.

The scholarship amounts were as follows, first place – $2,000, second place – $1,000 and third place – $500, with Hadar Aviram taking first place with her "Harvest Saison Venison": Seared Venison over Pommes Puree, Fried Venison Croquettes, Pickled Brussels Sprouts and Spiced Red Wine Sauce. When asked what inspired this dish, Hadar explained: “When I researched the region we were supposed to base the dish on, I was glad to find that game meat is very common, so I chose venison. Building around the main protein, I wanted to use typical Belgian produce (apples, pears, and potatoes) and to be inspired by traditional local dishes. Basically, I was trying to create a fun, fine dining dish that would pair well with the beer, while using ingredients that were true to the region.”

The winning dish: Harvest Saison Venison. Photo by Dee Dee Germain.

Second place went to David Kurihara, who prepared "Allagash Chicken and Gaufres": Roulade of Chicken with Collard Green Slaw, Spiced Powder and White Gravy. At the end of the night, David was drained but excited. “The competition was the most challenging three hours I’ve put myself through so far. I can’t wait to do something like it again!” Adrian Brown, who took third place, created Moules “Meatballs” with Belgian Waffle Frites, Endive, Fennel, Celery Root, Blood Orange and Grapefruit. When asked about the experience, Adrian noted: “The intensity in the contest proved to be a welcome test of the skills I have learned so far in class—the most important one being time management."

The hosts, judges, and contestants at the end of another successful Cookin' with Allagash Recipe Contest. Photo by Dee Dee Germain

For guests at the competition, Chef Virginia Monaco prepared a buffet of pulled lamb sliders with pickled onions and smoky aioli; braised chicken thighs with mushrooms, kale and creamy polenta; and salmon with fennel, raisins, and capers over white vegetable stew. These three dishes paired perfectly with the three beers provided for the evening: Allagash Saison, Coolship Resurgam, and Allagash White. The food and drink were a hit, reminding us once again why we love Allagash beer - whether sipped on its own or paired with a delicious dish. We're already counting down the days until next year's event!

Beer Recipe Students Culinary School